Monday, June 20, 2011

Secret blog

Hello all,

I didn't even tell people bout this blog on fb cause i did one 2 days ago so i guess its like a bonus one. Haha.

Yesterday was completely epic! For some of the team, it was the last day that they would be in Aragum Bay because today we head to a place called Ella. Ella apparently is amazing, but I'll talk about that another time. So because it was the last day they'de be here, we decided to do something special and take a few a the local boys to a distance surf spot and then take em out to lunch afterwards. They don't get to surf many other places than the point because it costs like $20 for the tok tok (small car) ride. Off we went to Ocannda. Super rad wave! To get there you travel along a series of dirt roads which pretty much is in the jungle, like sometimes you'll have to stop to wait for an elephant to get off the track. Elephants can do serious damage to a small tok tok so you don't try overtake. The landscape along the way is full of massive rocks which look like someone's just thrown them half in the ground. But when you get to Ocannda there's the biggest rock of all, and the Hindu's believe it has some kind of significance.

Was interesting and sad to see that along the way there was all these Hindu's walking alongside the road with heavy objects on their heads. The tok tok driver told us that they're walking to the big rock to worship I guess. Some of the people come from all parts of Sri Lanka and walk for 3 or 4 months to get there in July for a big festival.

Anyways, once we got there, we walked along this sandy track which opened out onto the beach to see an epic right hand point with no one on it. Felt just like the movie Endless Summer. Well there was actually 2 people already on there, they overtook us on the way, but none the less it still felt like an epic surf adventure. If you don't like surfing you can switch off for the next few sentences while I describe the break. So there's one big rock out the back and then another little one half way down the line. You can really take off right in front of the rock out the back because it breaks directly onto the oyster infested rock, but it kind of slopes down into the water like a big wedge. So it absolutely barrels super heavy out the back and once it starts to break on a little bit of water on the wedge you can get slotted for about 2 or 3 second, but its so scary because its about 30cm deep and it completely covered with oysters. A few of the guys got cut up pretty bad (which thinned out the crowd to just us)! Then after it blows out you do a few turns on big open face, and get as deep as you can in front of the second rock to try get barrelled again.

Was a super fun day. The boys really enjoyed it.

1 comment:

  1. coool. what are you TALKING about with the secret blog thing? so confusing haha